Saturday, July 14, 2007

Raspberry Conserve

Thanks to Rose Levy Berenbaum, I know what to do with 3 pounds of raspberries.















My flat of local raspberries

This conserve is very strongly flavored and very versatile in the kitchen. Thanks to the pickers for these today.

sugar, 15 ounces
water, 9.25 ounces
raspberries, 3 pounds

1. In large diameter saucepan, combine sugar and water and bring to boil, stirring constantly. Boil one minute. Add 3 or 4 cups raspberries (keep in single layer) and boil 1 minute. Remove berries with slotted skimmer to a sieve set over a bowl. Reduce syrup in pan to 2 cups. Repeat with more berries. Periodically, return juice in bowl to pan and reduce to 2 cups. Skim the foam.















Syrup coming to the boil. Note waiting sieve.















First batch of berries goes into boiling syrup. The sieve's still waiting.

2. When last batch of berries is completed boil syrup to 2 cups and reserve off heat. Sieve berries to remove most seeds. There should be about 2 cups of pulp. Add sieved berries to reserved syrup and simmer 10 minutes or until reduced to 4 cups.















Near final addition of berries. Note sieve in use.

3. Fill sterilized jars. Cool. Thickens for 2 days. Keeps in refrigerator 2 weeks.















Raspberry Conserve
With génoise riche and lemon curd

Lemon Curd

Based on Rose Levy Berenbaum's version, this is less sweet and more lemony than most. Alternative versions include Marion Cunningham's. Use neither if curd is to be baked.

Yields 2 cups.

egg yolks, 5 ounces (about 8)
sugar, 9 ounces
lemon juice, freshly squeezed, 6.5 ounces (about 5 lemons)
unsalted butter, 4 ounces, softened
salt, 2 pinches
lemon zest, 4 teaspoons, finely shredded
heavy cream, 2 Tablespoons chilled















1. In saucepan, beat yolks and sugar until well blended. Stir in remaining ingredients. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until thickened. It will thickly coat the back of a wooden spoon, but still be liquid enough to pour. Do not boil. If steam appears, immediately remove from heat and keep stirring.















2. Pour through strainer. Discard residue. Pour into sterile container and cool. Chill.



















Keeps 3 weeks refrigerated.

Twelve-Inch Génoise Riche

Génoise riche
Yields one 12-inch cake. Serves 20.















All ingredients at room temperature.
Recipe has two parts: cake and imbibing syrup.

For the cake:
Beurre noisette, 5 ounces
vanilla, 2 teaspoons
eggs, 8
sugar, 7 ounces
cake flour, 3.5 ounces, sifted
cornstarch, 3.5 ounces, sifted

Grease the bottom of a 12-inch baking pan with butter. Line with parchment. Grease again and flour. Soak MagiCake strip in warm water.

Preheat oven to 350 F.

1. In medium bowl over simmering water, warm beurre noisette to 110 F. Remove from heat, add vanilla, and keep warm.

2. In large mixing bowl over simmering water, heat eggs and sugar until lukewarm, stirring constantly (prevents curdling). Scrape egg mixture into bowl of standing mixer and beat at high speed until tripled in volume, about 5 minutes. While eggs are beating, sift together flour and cornstarch. Set aside in sifter.

3. Remove 1 cup of beaten eggs and thoroughly whisk into beurre noisette.

4. Sift half flour mixture onto remaining eggs and rapidly fold until nearly all flour has been incorporated. Repeat with remaining flour mixture until it has disappeared completely. Fold in butter mixture.

5. Immediately pour batter into prepared pan. Fasten MagiCake strip around pan. Bake about 45 minutes. Finished cake is golden brown and begins to pull away from pan edge.

6. Loosen cake from pan with thin metal spatula. Unmold at once onto greased wire rack. Remove parchment from bottom and reinvert until cool.

To store, wrap in plastic, then in foil. Unimbibed, cake keeps 2 days at room temperature, 5 days refrigerated, 2 months frozen.

For the imbibing syrup
sugar, 4 ounces
water, 8 ounces
flavoring of choice, 2 ounces

In small saucepan with tight-fitting lid, bring sugar and water to a rolling boil, stirring constantly. Cover immediately, remove from heat, and cool completely. Add flavoring. Add water to bring to 1 1/2 cups. Keeps 1 month refrigerated in airtight container.

Finishing
Imbibe thawed cake 24 hours before serving.

With thanks to Rose Levy Berenbaum.