T J Buckley's

Sunday, August 26, 2007

On the occasion of the wedding anniversaries of John Calvi and Marshall Brewer (1989) and Sehoon Ahn and Minhee Kang (2005).

Referred to by more than a few as the best restaurant in Brattleboro.

Seats about 20. A counter doesn't separate diners from kitchen. You get to see everything. And you want to.

Appetizers

The chicken liver pâté included pistachios and bacon
with water crackers, apples, pears, cornichon, giant capers, whole grain mustard, chutney.

The tart was a cheesecake of goat cheese and smoked trout.

Salad

Mixed greens
with pickled peppers, white and pink radishes cut and assembled into roses, yellow cherry tomatoes, husk tomatoes, a narcissus blossom and a very light, enhancing vinaigrette.

Entrees

Fillet of beef
with roasted turnips, garlic-buttermilk mashed potatoes, port-wine reduction.

Spinach-stuffed breast of quail and duck leg confit

with white bean salad, red-wine poached nectarine

Scallops with roe attached, seared in lobster stock
with polenta, balsamic reduction, roasted beets

Desserts

Flourless dark chocolate cake and bittersweet chocolate buttercream frosting
with raspberries, blueberries, whipped cream, raspberry sauce
(chef included celebratory candle)

Vanilla-orange crème brûlée
with chrysanthemum blossom, orange peel, whipped cream

Exquisite at $125 per couple.

Michael Fuller, chef

T.J. Buckley's Uptown Dining
132 Elliott Street
Brattleboro, Vermont 05301
802-257-4922
Reservations encouraged.

Please excuse photo quality. Better the food should be seen, though, than to disturb other diners with our flash.

Tasting Olive Oil

Of all the reasons to use olive oil, and there are many, surely flavor is at the top of the list. As with wine, dairy cows, and chocolate, botanical variety engenders taste variety. My own feeling is the less time between harvest and consumption, the greater the flavor satisfaction. Cultivation, handling, storage, and age account for the complexity of choice and widely varying flavors. Consider the oil from olives, this from The Flavors of Olive Oil: A Tasting Guide and Cookbook, by Deborah Krasner.

Careful labeling can indicate care in manufacturing. In this case, olive variety is identified and flavor notes are included.

Krasner groups olive oil's flavors into four categories. Details and nuances of these categories are further described on pages 22 & 23 in her book.

1. Mild and delicate
2. Fruity and fragrant
3. Olive-y and peppery
4. Leafy green and grassy

Age Caution
From Krasner, page 27: "I've encountered two distinct odors that are immediate indicators that the oil is no longer good. Odor of cucumber: This is a sign of a stagnant oil; it occurs when oil has been kept in a tin for too long (2 to 3 years). Odor of bananas: This sweet banana smell always means that the oil is spoiled, frequently as a result of exposure to light."

The August 13 New Yorker Magazine published Tom Mueller's article on olive oil fraud, emphasizing the trade is as lucrative as illegal drugs. While not a new problem (fraud is mentioned in The Flavors of Olive Oil), lots of consumer cautions can be found between the lines of his writing.

Picholine olives

You can plan your own tasting by inviting some friends to bring their favorite olive oils over to your house for a party. Krasner suggests ensuring the oil has been warmed to body temperature before swallowing. These are my suggestions.

How to taste olive oil

1. Cup a clean spoonful of oil in your (clean) hand.
2. Carefully smell the oil.
   
3. Roll the oil around in your mouth, making sure to reach all corners. The professionals will add oxygen by a kind of reverse whistling. Can you place the oil in your mouth so it bubbles when you add air?
4. Continue to taste the changes in the oil as it comes to body temperature and is oxygenated.
5. Now swallow. Breathe in through you mouth and out through your nose.
6. Make notes. How did the oil feel in your mouth? What sequence of flavors did it have?
   
7. Before moving on to the next oil, cleanse your palate by eating good bread and drinking warm water.
8. For the next oil, use an absolutely clean spoon to prevent flavor contamination. Wash metal spoons in hot, soapy water or use plastic.

What do you notice?
What did you learn?
How will you use what you've learned?

Buying Olive Oil

There are trustworthy sources aplenty for purchasing olive oil. Note the resources section of Deborah Krasner's The Flavors of Olive Oil: A Tasting Guide and Cookbook, beginning on page 214. Some are listed below.

Cost caution
Don't just hop into the supermarket and expect to get what you pay for. There are plenty of once-great (and expensive) oils that, through mishandling, have gone bad but still have their high priced stickers. It is also true there are excellent oils to be had for very reasonable prices.

From The Flavors of Olive Oil, page 216, here are some links to selected producers that sell to directly to the consumer.

Carpineto (Tuscany)
Le Colline di Santa Cruz (California)
DaVero (California)
Elea (Sparta and Corinth)
Frantoio (California)
Gallo (Lisbon)
Kotinos (Crete)
Laleli (Endremit)
The Olive Press (California)
L'Oulibo (Languedoc-Roussillon)
Pons (Lleida)
Podere Pornanino (Chianti)
Rasna (Tuscany)
Sciabica (California)
Terroir de Provence (Provence)
Zeytinim (Endremit)

See also
California Olive Oil Council
International Olive Oil Council
The Olive Oil Source

Arbequina olives